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Created 3rd March 2014 by Abigail

Exhibition

Moss Side Stories

Moss Side Stories: The Hidden History of Hulme and Moss Side Club Culture Curated by: Abigail Ward

Thanks to: Dubwise-er, Commonword, Ashley Kennerley, Al Baker, Dorothy Jasper, Franklin Jackson, Hewan Clarke, Irene Wilson-Brown, Kenny Williams, Lee Jasper, Martin De Mello, Michael Pye, Persian, Ursula Ackah, Yvonne McCalla

www.exhulme.co.uk
www.mancky.co.uk

Welcome to Moss Side Stories – the Hidden History of Moss Side and Hulme Club Culture.

This online exhibition was inspired, in part, by Manchester Digital Music Archive’s most profilic contributor, ‘Dubwise-er’, who has uploaded almost a thousand artefacts to our website in under two years. A great many of Dubwise-er’s flyers, photos, press articles and absorbing recollections relate to his time as a reggae-obsessed gig-goer in Moss Side and Hulme during the 1980s. We thought it was time to group together these fascinating uploads and let them tell their own tale. Dubwise-er (who wishes to remain anonymous) has also supplied an evocative personal history of the area, shot through with his trademark wry humour and encyclopaedic knowledge. His musical memories include Desmond Dekker at Hulme Hippodrome; Prince Far-I at The Ardri (cancelled due to ‘mental instability’) and Barington Levy at the PSV:

“…with ear- piercing whistles blowing, cans, bottles, anything and everything banging against walls and tables, it was a cacophony of deafening appreciation in a sweat -dripped room, to a man at his unique peak."

Dubwise-er, we salute you!

We have also been supported on this project by Commonword Writers’ Development Agency, who have kindly donated audio interviews with a number of pioneering Moss Side scenesters, including Reno Club DJs Persian and Hewan Clarke; flamboyant Caribbean Club compere Franklin Jackson; Jah Music soundsystem builder Owen Townsend and writer Yvonne McCalla. Many topics are touched upon in these candid oral histories, but recurring themes include: shebeens and blues - why they sprung up as a response to stifling UK drinking culture; the sense of community that was generated by the clubs of Moss Side and Hulme (particularly the Nile and the Reno); and the strained relationship between the Black community and the police, which culminated in the July 1981 Moss Side riot. These spoken-word snapshots reveal a culture of defiant partying in the face of hardship and oppression - a thread that runs through Manchester music as a whole. They highlight how clubs can unite communities and shape lives. In his interview DJ Persian states: “In The Reno the music took over everybody. The music took care of everything. This is why people still talk about it today. Their romantic lives were formed from that; their kids were born from that. Everything that happened in their life came from that experience and they still talk about it in those terms today.”

As with our main site, this exhibition is a work in progress put together by volunteers. There are still many gaps, which we hope you will be inspired to fill. If you have any artefacts or recollections that you would like to add, please email them to info@mdmarchive.co.uk.
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Linda Brogan
Nile Club, Reno Club
Photograph, 1969
The Nile and the Reno on the corner of Moss Lane East and Princess Road, circa 1969. The Reno was the black door on the left. Thanks to Commonword for supplying this photo. (Photographer unknown).

Both clubs are discussed in detail in our series of interviews, which can be found below in the 2011 section of the timeline.

The legacy of the Reno Club is currently being celebrated and explored in a fascinating project led by playwright, artist and writer, Linda Brogan. Part of that project is an exhibition at the Whitworth Art Gallery, running from 15 March 2019 to March 2020.

A piece that originally appeared in i-D magazine in Feb 2019 by Kamila Rymajdo is reproduced below:
i-d.vice.com/en_uk/articl...

“We dipped our fingers in the fountain of youth,” is how Jamaican-Irish playwright Linda Brogan explains the 2017 archaeological excavation of The Reno, Manchester’s original nightclub for mixed-race youth. Opened in the early 1960s, and famously visited by Muhammad Ali, the funk and soul venue enjoyed a heyday in the 1970s, only to close in 1986, and be demolished a year later. Overgrown by grass in the multi-ethnic neighbourhood of Moss Side -- where Manchester’s Irish, West Indian and African communities have traditionally lived -- it was all but forgotten. Until now.

“Once you got in, it was like you were home,” remembers Barrie George, a retired Manchester City Football Club steward, who partook in the club's excavation.

Stigmatised by the 1930 ‘Fletcher Report’ (a controversial paper that described children of mixed heritage as suffering from inherent physical and mental defects) people such as Barrie and Linda found themselves caught between two different communities. “When we’d go to town, white people would say, ‘black this, black that,’ then we’d go out in Moss Side and the Jamaican people would go, ‘you mixed race, two nation, people with no countries,’ so it was like we were battling with two,” explains another Reno regular, Steve Cottier, his words echoing around the vast expanse of Whitworth Art Gallery’s upper floor. We're here because, starting on 15 March, the gallery will be the site of a year long residency, during which Linda, and twelve former Reno regulars, will explore the club’s historical context and attempt to strengthen its legacy.

As the Reno regulars reveal, the club’s music was a way to channel their frustrations. “You’d have a lovey-dovey song and then you’d have Marvin Gaye’s What’s Going On,” remembers Philip Collins Snr, another member of the ‘Reno 12’, who are gathering their memories and photographs for the forthcoming exhibition. “When I moved over here in 1961 all the clubs in Moss Side were playing reggae but back in Jamaica I grew up on American music. Thankfully the owner of the club recognised that what I was playing was making the club popular,” explains Persian, the Reno’s former DJ. Indeed, the unusual records selected by Persian and fellow DJs, such as Coolie and Hewan Clarke, soon attracted the likes of Simply Red musician Mick Hucknall and Factory Records boss Tony Wilson, with Clarke later being asked to play at Wilson’s Haçienda night club. But most white people wouldn’t come unless invited: “They weren’t your average white person," Phillip asserts. "They had some association to black or mixed race people."

And so, mixed race youths, who weren’t welcome elsewhere, continued to make up the fabric of the Reno. The friendships that were made began to extend beyond the club too, with Steve keen to tell me that the Reno even birthed a football team, Afroville, that, after the weekly Sunday afternoon game against the city’s other teams, would head back to the Reno for a drink. “We’d be stinking of grass and mud, but we didn’t care," Steve says. "People would ask us, ‘how d’you get on?’ and we’d say, ‘we won!’”

Now mostly in their 60s, though still sprightly, sharply dressed and excited to share their stories, the regulars tell me that the Reno was open day and night, long past its official license, and usually closing at five or six in the morning. Many patrons would be in there every day, playing dominoes in the ‘gambling room’ or smoking weed. Police raids were frequent. “There was a way out the back, but there was just one door, this one passageway and I remember one police raid we all just dropped our spliffs when they put the light on and ran, everybody really laughing,” Linda recalls.

The Reno’s reputation soon spread nationwide. “In the mid-70s when it was at its height, it was the number one soul club in all of Great Britain,” asserts Phillip. However, unlike arguably Manchester’s most famous nightclub -- the predominantly white working class Haçienda -- the Reno hasn’t really been remembered by the history books. Linda felt that this was a travesty and began an 18 month long mission to secure funding for the excavation of the club. Funded by the National Lottery, and completed with the assistance of Salford University’s Centre for Applied Archaeology, the club is finally getting the recognition it deserves, bringing many of Moss Side’s residents together, with the children, grandchildren and even great-grandchildren of those who attended the Reno coming to help with the dig.

Flared trousers, combs, lipsticks, perfumes, wallets, record bags and even weed were recovered during the excavation, culminating in a party played by four of the still living Reno DJs. For the volunteers who make up the Reno 12, the dig became almost an addiction, as well as catharsis. But they also see the exhibition, which will include a replica of the club as well as artefacts from the archeological dig, as playing an important role in preserving the area’s history. “The people living in Moss Side now, who’ve moved into Moss Side, can look at the archives we’ve got, and think, ‘oh yeah, there’s something substantial down there’,” Barrie says.

While the dig was groundbreaking -- the first excavation of a nightclub in living memory -- the year’s worth of filmed memoirs which preceded it are also a treasure trove for any discerning social historian. In one interview, Whitworth Reno 12 member Myra Trigg talks about being a 17 year-old mother leaving her pram outside the club, speaking volumes about how safe the area was prior to the ‘Gunchester’ drug related violence that befell Moss Side during the 90s. The interviews also proved to be a viral hit: “Without us saying anything, without any marketing, 45,000 people watched our videos,” Linda tells me.

Meeting again, after sometimes decades of not seeing each other, means many of the Reno regulars have plenty to talk about, finding themselves with different perspectives on subjects such as the area’s 1981 riots, which preceded the downturn of the club. For Linda, the project has been an opportunity to take ownership of the complex narratives surrounding black and mixed race identity, often misunderstood or mishandled by those without firsthand experience. But the Reno, she stresses, is predominantly a tale of joy, and one that’s now being told as it should be, by the people who loved it most: “We had an absolutely fabulous time down there -- and I knew if I just held onto that, I knew it would be alright,” she sums up and calls for a break. It might not be weed anymore, but the Reno 12 still like a smoke.

The Reno residency starts on 15 March 2019 and concludes in March 2020. More information can be found on the Whitworth Art Gallery website.
Hulme Crescents
Video, 1978
Uploaded to YouTube by 'Fastforward' Oct 8, 2008.

A en edited documentary on The Crescents from 1978.

A piece on The Crescents taken from Wikipedia:

At the end of World War II, the United Kingdom had a need for quality housing, with a rapidly increasing "baby boomer" population increasingly becoming unhappy with the prewar and wartime "austerity" of their lives, and indeed, their living space.

By the start of the 1960s England had begun to remove many of the 19th century slums and consequently, most of the slum areas of Hulme were demolished. The modernist and brutalist architectural style of the period, as well as practicalities of speed and cost of construction dictated high rise "modular" living in tower blocks and "cities in the sky" consisting of deck-access flats and terraces.

In Hulme, a new and (at the time) innovative design for deck access and tower living was attempted. This consisted of curved rows of low-rise flats with deck access far above the streets, known as the "Crescents" (which were, with unintentional irony, architecturally based on terraced housing in Bath). In this arrangement, motor vehicles remained on ground level with pedestrians on concrete walkways overhead, above the smoke and fumes of the street. People living in these new flats were rehoused from decaying Victorian slums which lacked electricity, running water, bathrooms or indoor toilets, and were mostly overcrowded.

High-density housing was balanced with large green spaces and trees below, and the pedestrian had priority on the ground over cars. The 1960s redevelopment of Hulme split the area's new council housing into a number of sections. Hulme 2 was the area between Jackson Crescent and Royce Road. Hulme 3 was between Princess Road and Boundary Road based along the pedestrianised Epping Walk, Hulme 4 was between Princess Road and Royce Road and Hulme 5 - the "Crescents" themselves were between Royce Road and Rolls Crescent. The names of the "Crescents" harked back to the Georgian era, being named after architects of that time: Robert Adam Crescent, Charles Barry Crescent, William Kent Crescent and John Nash Crescent, together with Hawksmoor Close (a small straight block of similar design attached to Charles Barry Crescent). At the time, the "Crescents" won several design awards, and introduced technologies such as underfloor heating to the masses. They were also popular because they were some of the first council homes in Manchester to have central heating. The development even had some notable first occupants, such as Nico and Alain Delon.

However, what eventually turned out be recognised as poor design, workmanship, and maintenance meant that the crescents introduced their own problems. Design flaws and unreliable 'system build' construction methods, as well as the 1970s oil crisis meant that heating the poorly insulated homes became too expensive for their low income residents, and the crescents soon became notorious for being cold, damp and riddled with cockroaches and other vermin. Crime and drug abuse became significant problems in Hulme, as police did not patrol the long, often dark decks, due to the fact that they were not officially considered streets. The decks made muggings and burglary relatively easy, as any crime could be carried out in almost total privacy, with no hope for quick assistance from police below.

The crescents became troublesome very shortly after their construction—within a decade, they were declared 'unfit for purpose', and several plans were drawn up that suggested various differing types of renovation and renewal for the blocks, including splitting the buildings into smaller, more manageable structures by removing sections. In the 1980s and 1990s many of these vacant deck-access flats were squatted and the area acquired a 'Bohemian' reputation for its many punks, artists and musicians.

During the late 1980s Viraj Mendis, an asylum seeker from Sri Lanka, sought the right of sanctuary in the Church of the Ascension in Hulme. He was an active supporter of Sri Lanka Tamils and claimed danger of death if he was sent back to Sri Lanka. He stayed in the church for two years until the church was raided by police on 18 January 1989.
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Buzzcocks, X-O-Dus (Exodus)
Alexandra Park
Poster, 1978
Poster: Northern Carnival Against the Nazis designed by Dave King, 1978.

It was on the train home from the Carnival in London that Geoff Brown (ANL) and Bernie Wilcox, who had already been promoting small RAR gigs across Manchester, decided that together they would organise the Northern Carnival Against the Nazis.

Ten weeks of intense work followed with many volunteers and sympathetic organisations lending a hand. Hundreds of people made special banners, placards and badges, and helped to book coaches from outside Manchester.

There weren't as many of these posters available as hoped because the Anti Nazi League office in London had been firebombed. Moss Side band Exodus (X-O-Dus) were added to the bill after this poster was printed, recommended by reggae DJ and future RAR organiser Debbie Golt.

This item was featured in Manchester Digital Music Archive's 'We Are Dynamite! Northern Carnival Against the Nazis 40th Anniversary' exhibition, held at Niamos (old Nia Centre) in Hulme in September 2018.

Co-organised by Geoff Brown of the Anti-Nazi League (ANL) and Bernie Wilcox of Rock Against Racism (RAR), the Carnival featured incendiary live performances by pop-punk superstars Buzzcocks and Steel Pulse, the UK's leading reggae band of the period. Support came from Moss Side reggae band Exodus (later X-O-Dus) and China Street from Lancaster, who had released a single on EMI called ‘Rock Against Racism’.

You can find out more in our online version of the exhibition here:
www.mdmarchive.co...

Special thanks to our funders Heritage Lottery Fund and Futura.

Thanks also to all our wonderful volunteers.