In this lively conversation, Bill Smart and Pablo Blanquito explore the deep connection between fashion, music, and identity in the UK club scene. They reflect on how clothing wasn’t just about style—it was a way of expressing individuality, finding belonging, and making a statement on the dance floor.
Bill shares how his journey started with Northern Soul, recalling the simple yet distinct look—cap sleeve t-shirts, baggy trousers, American snake belts, and his signature Afro, which he loved shaking around at Wigan Casino. He remembers the divide between staying loyal to Northern Soul and embracing the emerging funk, disco, and jazz-funk scenes, leading him to explore different clubs, sounds, and styles.
As the club scene evolved, so did the fashion. Bill describes traveling to Manchester, getting changed in Victoria Station toilets before heading out, wearing Hawaiian shirts, plus-four trousers, and metal-tipped pointed shoes. The dance floor was a battleground where rivalries were settled through movement rather than violence. This dance culture influenced later club scenes, from jazz-funk to electro.
Pablo reflects on his own early fashion influences—funk belts, boating shoes, jumbo cord trousers, and velour V-necks—emphasizing how important style was in feeling part of something tribal yet unique. They discuss how Manchester’s independent clothing shops shaped their style, from Jonathan Silver’s, Geese, X Clothing, and the Oasis underground market to high-end stores like Richard Creme, where designer labels like Issey Miyake were imported.
However, access to these scenes wasn’t always equal. Bill talks about the racism Black club-goers faced in Manchester’s city center, often being turned away with excuses like “members only,” while white customers walked straight in. Even shops sometimes refused entry based on prejudice. Over time, Manchester recognized these issues, but they were part of the city’s darker past, influenced by figures like police chief James Anderton.
Bill and Pablo also touch on the crossover between different style movements—how elements from New Romantic fashion mixed with club wear, and how personal styling choices set trends. Bill recalls customizing a pair of trousers from “Bus Stop” by repositioning buttons, only for a woman in a club to ask where he got them because she hadn’t seen them in store!
Beyond club nights, Bill worked in fashion retail, helping shape trends in Manchester by bringing in brands like Soviet denim, which became a huge hit. He was also part-owner of The Emporium, where he curated unique, high-end pieces that weren’t widely available.
At the end of the chat, Bill reminisces about his favorite-ever outfit—a military-inspired look he put together for a Roxy Music concert, featuring camouflage trousers, a tight-fitting green jacket, and an Arabic scarf, which turned heads the moment he walked in.
This discussion shows how fashion wasn’t just about what you wore—it was a statement, a ritual, and a way to claim space in a sometimes unwelcoming world.
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